Freitag, 22. Juni 2012

How should we call the creature? .....we call it human

                                               Pio on the 2nd picht of "Save Madrischa"

 While I was climbing on a new project, a good friend of mine made the first repetition (as far as I know) of the route “Save Madrischa” (I published a brief report on the route in the previous post). Seeing him climb was like a time travel back when I was there. Trying to fumble in some gear, while visualising the upcoming movements.

The Rote Wand was previously named MADRISCHA (isia mater). Translated the meaning it´s “Mother Mountain”.

To name this route “Save Madrischa” was a result of my personal approach and view concerning the history of the Rote Wand. The puristic way of how routes have been set up there over the time is a present for upcoming generations. For people like you and me, for us. I see the idea of  “plaisir-climbing” as a trend which is a result of nowadays need to consume a “save” adventure. Climbing has found it´s place in the world of sports. And the playground is for everyone.

In my point of view it is important that we respect traditional climbs. We shouldn´t destroy their character with an excuse of contemporary safety standards. We still have a huge potential for putting up routes in a more “consumer friendly” style. It´s not important if a route has one hundred or just three ascents per year.
Isn´t it the quality of an experience which makes it a personal highlight? I remember those days most brightly where I had to fight, where I suffered, where I felt fear. The days where I exposed myself the most.

Don´t reduce climbing on the movement. It´s more. Think about your steady progression in life. And imagine there could be a time when your climbing changes.
This might be the point where climbing could be a projection of your feelings, an expression of your existence.

Climbing is not climbing! Save adventure climbs! Maybe one day you will need them too!?

Sonntag, 10. Juni 2012

The Attraction of the Unknown

“Hanno! how far can I climb on without touching the ledge below?!”
“Four meters but not more!”
“Ok I ´ll go for it”
I am standing six meters above my last protection trying to place a hook onto a sloper where I thought could be an edge or a small hole. Unfortunately nothing is there. The whole surface of the rock I can reach with my fingers is blank. With every second, while searching for a cliff placement, my left hand is getting more and more pumped. I am trying to stay focused. A feeling of fear slightly arises. It’s like a wall in front of me obstructing my view. I have to leave this place, this situation, get new cards. I climb higher pushed by confidence that I will find what I am searching for.

Nothing f***! f***! f***! There is no placement, the hole structure of the rock is too smooth.

I try to climb down. One move down, another move down…..  it´s no energy left. I am watching my fingers one by one slipping off the small hold. My mind is clear. I have neither feelings of fear nor happiness. I slip into a state of freedom, no decisions to make, no responsibility to take. Now I am the observer.

My fall wasn´t long and I didn´t hit the ledge below. The cliff was still hanging somewhere on the wall because I didn’t have the power to put it back on the gearsling. The cliff was connected to my harness and stopped my fall. I needed some time to realize why I am not falling. I was back in my life in the situation I brought myself into. Hanging on this marginal nothing - but at least hanging!

 It´s a phenomenon of our affluent society to risk the own healthiness to intense feeling of life. The need to feel evanescence to stay active lies within the human nature. Sure you can say the situation is not real because I expose myself purposely. I have to agree with this argument. But to be polemic, our industrial and social surrounding is full with artificial responsibility. Is it a comfort of time to stay infront of a red traffic light? You don´t have to fell the decision. Cross or don´t cross? It´s not upon you to decide.  

So again the question why?
Because it´s my reality, where I can test my skills and improve them, where I can feel the freedom to decide and take the responsibility over the next move or the gear I place.
The way I get into such situations seems to be a trend, but the influences of it are real and I have the opportunity to solve them out of a deep feeling of trust in what I am doing.

 In 2010 and last year I put up two multi-pitch routes at the south face of Rote Wand/Lechquellengebirge/Austria. I am now publishing the topos of “Save Madrischa” and “Pollution” for the chronic of the Rote Wand and to avoid alleged “new” first ascent over already existing climbs. The new routes are no “death- climbs” but for enjoying the climbing you should feel comfortable with the difficulties of the route and some air under the a**.

Mittwoch, 6. Juni 2012

Water + Cold = Ice

                                               overhanging ice.....lots of work. Location Fallbach

Summer should already be here but at the moment we have lots of rain and my projects are not in the best shape. So I am forced to do a restday….. drinking lots of coffee and do some blog posting while listen music.
Just had my icetools in the hand………playing with them in the flat, what I can´t recommend because there will be traces everywhere, on the desk on the door frame, …..  your girlfriend will find it ;)…….

The ice season in Vorarlberg was really short (only 10 days long) and strange because we had no rain in the hole fall. So some icefalls didn´t built up well or even existed. Others were growing well because normally they have too much water. I was at the right time on the right place and realised the first repetition of the “Haselwurzfall”. It´s first ascent was made by the Mathis - brothers (Rochus , Gottfried) 22 years ago! This is what I really like on ice climbing, it´s so depending on conditions. I seized the cold temperatures did some nice ice action, mixed-climbs and solos.


                                                    "Ebnitermöse", Location Ebnit/Vorarlberg

                                   Is this a save belay? searching for the way through Fallbach. Location Dornbirn